The sounds of Antarctica
Elena Humphreys LucasRight Whale Bay, South Georgia
December 22, 2022
The morning of December 22 was our first look at South Georgia. I remember being so excited to get a glimpse at the penguin colony on shore that I quickly put on all my gear an hour ahead of time. This way I could go straight to the excursion from the observation deck, spending as much time as possible outside.
As soon as I opened the door to the terrace on the 8th deck, I was hit with the sounds of hundreds of thousands of king penguins and fur seals. Although the ship was anchored about a mile away, it was clear the whole bay was alive. Surrounding the ship, pods of king penguins were jumping in and out of the water. We could see fur seals popping their heads out of the water and then diving back down, not to come up for a few minutes.
The expedition leader, Jamie, had previously made an announcement at breakfast that there was ‘too much wildlife’ in order to make a landing. Therefore, our first excursion of South Georgia was a morning zodiac cruise through the bay. These audio recordings capture the extraordinary sounds that we observed from the safety of our zodiac.
There are a number of things you can hear in these recordings: the calls of king penguins, the shouts of baby fur seals playing on the beach, the engine of our zodiac, the curiosity of the passengers, and the information our expedition guide gave us. I hope you can take a few minutes to enjoy these sounds, envisioning yourself surrounded by some of the densest and most diverse wildlife this planet has to offer.
Right Whale Bay Morning Zodiac Cruise 1
Right Whale Bay Morning Zodiac Cruise 2
Salisbury Plain, South Georgia
December 22, 2022
Our first landing in South Georgia! After an exciting morning in Right Whale Bay, our feet touched ground on the spectacular island for the first time at Salisbury Plain.
As we arrived in our zodiac on the shores of South Georgia, Jamie, our fantastic expedition leader, greeted us saying “Welcome to Jurassic Park ladies and gentlemen.” I never thought a line fit so perfectly with the environment.
Seconds after he said that a king penguin waddled across the path that was supposedly “for” the humans. To make things more dramatic, a giant male fur seal ran after it, just feet away from where we sat, anxiously awaiting our landing.
I remember standing there frozen on land, not able to move forward. I and the others had no idea where to look. On one side, a mother and baby fur seal argued with each other, on the other, a group of king penguins followed each other in a single line. From behind, two male fur seals would start to attack each other, while to your side a king penguin would start to flap his wings at you: a warning sign.
There are no words to describe the pure chaos we experienced in just an hour and a half we were there. That afternoon we saw nature in its pure form; there was no disguise nor alteration.
Salisbury Plain Afternoon Landing 1
Salisbury Plain Afternoon Landing 2
Salisbury Plain Afternoon Landing 3
Gold Harbour, South Georgia
December 24, 2022
Gold Harbour was one of my favorite landings for many reasons. The first reason is my obsession with elephant seals. This harbor was definitely not a disappointment in terms of the sheer number of elephant seals and elephant seal pups! Another reason is because of the absolutely gorgeous glacier that casually laid in the backdrop. Not only was the water a magnificent turquoise color, but green grass lay at the foot of the glacier which was surrounded by snowy mountains.
What more can South Georgia offer us in terms of landscape?! Here, it was made clear that the sounds of elephant seals are vastly different than those of fur seals. They are ridiculously funny creatures making farting and burping sounds. It is almost impossible not to laugh. Some of the elephant seal pups tried to make their way to us for some cuddles, but due to recent South Georgia regulation changes, guides and tourists are no longer allowed to let them within a few feet of us. Although it would have been an incredible experience to get snotted on by a baby elephant seal, I am glad that these comical creatures are getting the protection they deserve.
Gold Harbour Morning Landing 1
Gold Harbour Morning Landing 2
Gold Harbour Morning Landing 3
Mikkelson Harbour, Antarctica
December 30, 2022
On the afternoon of December 30, we managed another landing on the continent of Antarctica, this time at Mikkelson Harbour.
I remember this site well. Not for the penguins, or for the old whaling boat left behind, but for the hours I spent with one of my classmates and friends, Sarah. After walking the trails in the snow and following the penguin highways, we noticed that a lot of the footprints made in the snow by previous passengers on our ship were really deep and, therefore, a risk of penguins accidentally falling in.
Since humans are much heavier than these little guys, our footprints make much deeper holes in the snow. Gentoo penguins waddling around the area could easily be trapped and not be able to escape. This is why it is so important to stay on the marked trail. So over the course of our time there, we walked around the various trails, kicking in each penguin trap we found.
Even with the icy environment and extreme conditions, we worked up quite a sweat. In this audio, you can hear the colony of Gentoos calling out to each other. When listening to it, I like to think that each penguin I recorded is now safe from the unfortunate fate of falling into someone’s careless footprints in the snow.
Mikkelson Harbour Afternoon Landing
Orne Harbour, Antarctica
December 31, 2022
Orne Harbour was, in my opinion, our most memorable landing. Although there was not very much wildlife, it was quite entertaining to watch the little Chinstrap penguins sliding down their bellies from where their colony stood at the top, all the way down to the water.
All along the harbour, a layer of ice congested the path, making it difficult for the zodiac drivers to navigate to and from shore. In addition to the extreme environment and dramatic landscapes, the sky was grey, giving an almost ominous feel to the air. Although the only colors I could see was shades of white and black, the scenery was remarkably beautiful.
This audio is different from the others, because it does not capture the cries of thousands of animals. Instead, it captures the howling of the wind, the snow beneath my feet, and some of the voices of those around me. As you listen, I hope you guys can feel the wind biting at your nose and the cold slowly seeping through your clothes. I really hope to have the opportunity to be in this type of environment again- partly because I need to work on my balance in the snow!
Orne Harbor Afternoon Landing
Elena Humphreys Lucas
Junior, Communication & Spanish